One Old Place: Sleder's Celebrates Designation

Sleder’s, has always felt like stepping back in time -- the long bar, the ice cream parlor chairs, the tin ceiling. Now locals can revel in the fact it doesn’t just look old – it actually is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the state, having opened its doors in 1882.

The previous record-holder was the White Horse Inn in Metamora, east of Flint, which began operations in 1850. It was shuttered in 2012, and while new owners are planning to reopen it later this month, that two-year closure means the title will remain in Traverse City as long as Sleder’s stays open.

“There have been restaurants in older buildings, but not always operating as restaurants,” says Brian Cairns. He and his wife Deb have owned Sleder’s since 1992.

In fact, until the White Horse Inn does reopen, Sleder’s can claim the mantle of Michigan’s oldest restaurant period.

Brian DeBano, the President and CEO of the Michigan Restaurant Association, says the association doesn’t maintain records of the longest-tenured restaurants in the state. “We don't keep that information since we've only been around since 1921,” says DeBano.

He was surprised to hear about Sleder’s longevity, as he believed the restaurant which had been open the longest was Roma Café in Detroit, which has been in operation since 1890. Sleder’s has that beaten by eight years.

Yahoo has recognized Sleder’s status in an article noting the oldest restaurant in every state, a fact that is now touted on the home page of the Sleder’s website.

The restaurant got its start in 1880 when Bohemian immigrant Vencel Sleder decided to build a tavern where everyone could relax. He enlisted the help of his neighbors, and like many of the neighborhood’s building, used wooden slabs from nearby sawmills (hence the designation of that area as Slabtown).

Three generations of Sleders owned the establishment, the last of whom was Louie, who kept it running during Prohibition. No doubt that was because of the food, but it might have also benefited from his special root beer, a combination of bourbon and rye which he served in tea cups, including complimentary cups for local law enforcement.

Today it still has the feel of those days gone by, with the original mahogany bar with brass rail, century-old oak tables and the virtually unchanged, 12-foot high stamped tin ceiling. “The booths are from 1904,” adds Cairns. “It’s the original bar and back bar. We do everything we can to maintain it.”

There have been some concessions to changing times, from opening the establishment up to women by Louie Sleder in the 1930s (which apparently caused some hard feelings among the old guard) to converting the lights from gas to electric. The addition of the Victorian-style side porch and occasional concerts by acoustic and folk musicians plus a menu of pub fare, Mexican favorites and more give the old girl some modern polish.

Other than the newly reworded website, the Cairns don’t plan to do to anything special to recognize the honor. “We have a party every five years (to recognize every fifth-year anniversary),” said Cairns. Those parties raise funds for local charities, and the next one is scheduled for 2017.

In the meantime, the Cairns count on their staff and patrons to keep Sleder’s going. “We give a lot of credit to the people who work here,” said Cairns. “The man who cleans has been here for 38 years, the manager 27 years. A number of the waitstaff have been here over 20 years, most of them at least 10 years.

“My wife had her first drink there,” said Cairns. “It means a lot to us. We’re pretty proud to own it.”